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| Care of Hamsters |
Introduction
Hamsters are small, virtually tailless, velvet-furred rodents with enormous cheek pouches. They originated in the Middle East and
southeastern Europe. The most common and popular, both as pets and laboratory animals, is the golden or Syrian hamster. Color and
hair-type varieties of the golden hamster include cinnamon, cream, white, and the "teddy bear" (the long-haired variety). Most
hamsters sold as pets or used in research are the descendents of three littermates domesticated in 1930.
The cheek pouches are relatively unique anatomic features of hamsters. They are actually a cavernous outpouching of the oral (mouth)
cavity on both sides, extending alongside the head and neck to the shoulders. These pouches are used to store foof and allow the
hamster to transport food from where it is gathered to the hamster's den or nest. The food is then eaten later, at the hamster's leisure.
Hamster owners not familiar with these cheek pouches often panic when seeing them fully distended for the first time, thinking they
represent tumors or abscesses.
Another relatively unique anatomic feature of hamsters is the paired glands in the skin over the flanks. These appear as dark spots
within the haircoat and are much more obvious in males than females. These glands are used to mark a hamster's territory and also
have a role in sexual behavior.
Hamsters are very popular pets today because of their availability, affordability, small size, cuddly appearance, often docile temperament,
and relatively clean habits. They are not very long-lived, which can be disconcerting to owners (especially children). Many parents,
however, believe that having their children experience the relatively short period of companionship and subsequent death is a
meaningful way to expose children to the "ups and downs" of life.
For many years hamsters have ben nused in bio-medical research laboratories. Consequently, their medical problems have been
traditionally approached on a group basis, rather than on an individual basis. As a result, very little practical information
exists on the medical care of individual hamsters. Furthermore, even less information is available to pet owners on the responsible
home care of hamsters and their potential medical problems.
Handling and Restraint
Hamsters handled frequently from a very young age usually remain docile and rarely bite. Those with docile temperments and a history of not
biting can simply be picked up by using one or both hands, and then held in both hands or in one hand held against the body.
Many hamsters develop untrustworthy personalities and begin to bite because they have been handled roughly or suddenly disturbed or awakened.
Hamsters whose personalities are not well known must always be approached cautiously. A glove or small towel can be used to pick up
these hamsters, or the animals can be encouraged to crawl into a small container, which is then removed from their enclosure. Unknown
hamsters and those known to bite can also be picked up and restrained by grasping a large amount of skin behind the head. As much
skin as possible should be grasped between the thumb and index and middle fingers because their skin is so very loose. In fact, hamsters
can literally turn nearly all the way around within their skins and bite a handler if this caution is not heeded.
Housing
Proper housing is a major factor in maintaining healthy hamsters. The psycho-social well being of the pets must be a primary
consideration. Hamsters can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The last three
materials are preferred because they resist corrosion. Wood and similar materials should not be used to construct enclosures because
they are difficult to clean and cannot withstand the destructive gnawing of rodents. Many pet stores sell durable colored plastic enclosures
that include attached horizontal and vertical tubes through which the hamster can crawl for exercise. These are suitable enclosures for
hamsters.
The enclosure must be built so the hamsters cannot escape. This is an especially important consideration because hamsters are proficient
"escape artists." In fact, once free of their enclosure, they are very difficult to find and rarely return to it. A hamster free to
roam the house is a real liability because it will chew and gnaw on electrical and telephone cords, and household furnishings.
The enclosure must also be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards. It must be roomy enough to allow normal activities and breeding,
if the latter is desired. One reference recommends at least 20 square inches of floor space per hamster, and a cage height of at least
6 inches.
Hamsters seem to do best when housed in enclosures with solid floors, relatively deep bedding, and abundant nesting material. The
enclosure should be easy to clean, well lighted, and adequately ventilated. Bedding must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively
dust-free, and easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood shavings, and processed corn cob are preferred bedding materials. Cotton or
shredded tissue paper (Kleenex) is suitable nesting material.
Hamsters are primarily nocternal (night-active), though they may exhibit relatively short periods of period, hamsters eat and exercise.
Hamsters seem to especially enjoy exercise wheels and other activities. The plastic enclosures equipped with horizontal and vertical
tubes/tunnels mentioned above are highly recommended for this reason. Hamsters seem to really enjoy running through them. They also
enjoy tin cans opened at both ends and boxes with multiple openings through which they can crawl.
Pet hamsters are usually housed singly. Sexually mature females must not be housed together because of their inevitable
aggressiveness toward each other. Breeding females are larger than males and tend to be aggressive toward them. For this reason,
males must be removed from the enclosure after breeding has been completed.
Hygiene
The frequwncy with which the enclosure is cleaned depends on its design, the materials out of whcih it is made, and the number of hamsters within it.
As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure and all cage "furniture" should be cleaned and disinfected once weekly. The food and water containers
should be cleaned and disinfectde once daily. More than one set of containers should be maintained, and the soiled set should be
washed in a dishwasher, if possible. Vigorous scrubbing of the enclosure and furniture with hot water and soap and a thorough rinse
should be followed by use of a disinfectant (Roccal-D: Winthrop).
Food and Water
Good-quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. The exact nutritional requirements of the hamster
are not known. In the wild, they are omnivorous, feeding on plants, seeds, fruits, and insects. Pet hamsters are best fed
commercial rat or mouse diets containing at least 16% crude protein. These foods are usually available as dry blocks or pellets.
These commercial diets can be supplemented with small amounts of dry, sugar-free pasta, cooked chicken, tuna fish, cheese, fresh
fruits, and vegetables. The last two items must be thouroughly washed to avoid exposing pet hamsters to pesticide residues and
possible bacterial contamination.
Pet stores sell prepared hamster diets available in boxes or bags. These diets contain large quantities of seeds and items rich in
oils. Consequently, if improperly stored, they become rancid and lose nutritive value. Furthermore, these oil-rich items promote obesity.
These types of foods can be offered as a supplement to the commercial rat or mouse diets mentioned above.
All food should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist tipping. The sides of the crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal
material out of the food, or the crocks should be elevated slightly above the bedding.
Water is most easily available and kept free from contamination by providing it in one or more water bottles equipped with "sipper" tubes.
Make certain the ends of the tubes are positioned low enough to allow all residents within the enclosure (especially juvenille hamsters
over one week old) easy access to them. Also make certain that very young hamsters are strong enough to obtain water from these
sipper tubes.
Breeding Considerations
The sex of adult hamsters is easy to determine. Males have very large, prominent testicles. In fact, owners unaccustomed to seeing them are
often astonished at these anatomic peculiarities.
Male golden hamsters should be first bred when they are 14 weeks old. Females should be first bred when they are 10 weeks old. As the time
of copulation approaches, thin, stringy, cobwed-like mucus exits the female's vulva. The female is then placed into the male's cage
about one hour before dark. The pair must then be carefully observed for mating activity and/or fighting. Females can be very aggressive
to males in this situation and can harm them. The male should be removed at once if there is fighting. Because fighting is so likely,
aggressive males are best hand-mated. In these situations, they are better able to defend themselves and "hold their ground." The
male should be removed after mating.
Pregnancy lasts ony 15 1/2 - 16 days. Before delivery, the females becomes restless and usually discharges a small amount of blood
from her vulva. Litters usually range from 5-10 pups. The pups are born hairless, with ears and eyes closed. They do, however, have
their front teeth (the incisors) ar birth.
Female hamsters with young must be provided with abundant nesting and bedding materials, and plenty of food and water. They must
not be disturbed in any way. The young should not be touched or handled until they are at least 7 days old, the nest should not
be disturbed, and the cage should not be cleaned during this period. Failure to heed these cautions (especially with females nursing
their first litters) most often results in cannibalism of the young.
Observant owners may note an interesting material rearing activity, especially if the female with young is excited or disturbed.
She will stuff pups into her cheek pouches and deposit them into the nest a short time later when she believes the danger has passed.
Occasionally, pups suffocate as a result of this activity, especially during lengthy periods of disturbance.
Young hamsters usually begin eating solid food at 10 days of age but usually weaned at about 3 weeks of age. Solid, pelleted food
must be soaked to soften it and be placed on or near floor level of the enclosure for easy access by the weanlings. As mentioned
above, sipper tubes must be positioned low enough so that the smallest pups can reach them. Some pups will not be strong enough to
extract water from sipper tubes, so owners must be vigilant for this potential problem and provide an alternative water source for them.
Disease Susceptibility
Hamsters tend to be affected by relatively few naturally occurring diseases. Their susceptability, however, to a host of infectious
diseases of other, including people, and the ease with which these diseases can be transmitted to hamsters have made them very popular
laboratory animals for biomedical research. "Teddy bear" hamsters and other genetic varieties tend to be much more susceptible to disease
and sensitive to antibiotics and other drugs than golden hamsters.
Recognizing Disease in Hamsters
Because hamsters are very small, nocternal (night-active) and not closely observed, the early signs of illness are frequently overlooked
or not noted at all. Hamster owners must be constantly vigilant for signs of illness and must seek immediate veterinary assistance
when illness is suspected.
Sick hamsters often become irritable and frequently bite. They are usually reluctant to move about and walk stiffly when forced to
do so. Their eyes often look dull and sunken, and frequently have a discharge. Sick hamsters often stop eating or greatly reduce
their intake of food. Consequently, weight loss is a common sign (not necessarily an easy one to recognize) of illness in hamsters.
Fluid losses from diarrhea also may cause marked weight loss. Sudden intestinal disease (with accompanying diarrhea) is the most common
illness in hamsters, especially among those being weaned or recently weaned. If the serious accompanying dehydration is not recognized
immediately and corrected with appropriate fluid therapy at the direction of a veterinarian, death is probable.
Conditions Requiring Veterinary Attention
Teeth Problems
The incisor (front, gnawing) teeth grow continuously for the life of the hamster (this is true for all rodents). They receive continuous wear
as the uppers and lowers contact each other, preventing overgrowth. Misalighnment of either the upper or lower incisors because of previous injury,
abscess formation, or malnutrition may result in overgrowth of one or more of the teeth. Overgrown incosor teeth usually cause serious injury
to the roof of the mouth. Sometimes the lower incisors actually grow through the roof of the mouth and into the nasal cavity!
Initial signs of this problem are inappetence and drooling. Total lack of eating, weight loss, and a foul odor from the mouth may
be noted later. These signs often are completely overlooked.
A veterinarian must carefully trim the overgrown incisors and extract them from the roof of the mouth. Antibiotics are prescribed
because of the high probability of infection following this type of injury. Periodic trimming of the incisors is usually necessary
for the remainder of the hamster's life.
Some popular hamster houses made of plastic had holes in the horizontal and vertical tubes originating from the main rectangular
enclosure. Hamsters frequently caught and broke their incisors in these holes in the plastic. The holes have since been made smaller by the
manufacturer, and this injury is seen less frequently now.
Trauma
Hamsters are easily injured. They are frequently dropped while being handled (especially by childreb), or after they bite. Pet hamsters
allowed "free run of the house" (even for very short periods) are often stepped on or kicked and seriously injured or killed.
Hamsters are frequently injured while inside an "exercise ball." This is a clear plastic sphere that is propelled along the floor
by the action of the hamster running inside it. Injuries occur when a person accidentally kicks the ball or when it falls down a flight of
stairs. Hamsters often perish when they are forgotten and left in these devices without food and water.
In spite of the clever and obvious benefits of this device, hamster owners must continually supervise its use. Parents must be made
aware by their children that it is in use. Above all, hamsters should not be forgotten while inside these devices.
Trauma may result in broken bones and/or serious internal injuries or death. A fall of over just a foot or more may result in a broken
back, for which there is no practical treatment.
Injured hamsters should be immediatly examined by a veterinarian. Broken bones are very difficult to manage. Often an appliance (splint, etc) to
immobilize the broken bone will not be applied because of the sometimes greater problems they impose on the broken limb. The veterinarian
will determine the best course of action in each situation.
Bladder Stones
Hamsters are susceptible to formation of stones within the urinary tract. The bladder is the only location within the urinary tract
in which stones would likely be detected upon physical examination by a veterinarian.
Signs of bladder stones may or may not be detected by hamster owners and are usually associated with infection within the urinary tract,
frequent urination, straining on urination, blood in urine, increased water consumption, listlessness, and inappetence.
An experienced veterinarian may be able to remove the stones. This is accompanies by appropriate antibiotic therapy. Dietary management
to help dissolve the urinary stones and prevent reccurrence is not practical with hamsters.
Cancer
Cancer is very common in pet hamsters. The incidence increases with age (as is the case with most animals) and is higher among females
than males because of the variety of canvers that involve the female reproductive tract. Tumors of hamsters may be benign or malignant.
Hamsters are vulverable to an unusually large number and variety of benign cancers.
Cancers involving hormone-producing organs (such as the thyroid or adrenal glands) are among the most common tumors found in hamsters.
These cancers cause hormone imbalances, hair loss, and changes in behavior, as well as other significant signs.
Veterinarians can often perform surgery to completely remove small external tumors. Internal tumors, however, are much more difficult
to diagnose and remove. The small size of the patient, the even smaller size of the organ(s) involved, the sometimes inaccessibility of
the tumor, and the expense involved are some reasons why an owner of a pet hamster might elect euthanasia (putting the pet to sleep)
or do nothing and allowing the hamster to live out its life instead of surgery in these situations.
Lack of Food and Water
Partial or total neglect of hamsters by their owners is an unfortunate but common problem. Negelectful owners fail to provide adequate supplies of
food and water for their pets, and are unaware of any medical problems. Potentially serious hehydration, starvation, stomach ulcers,
eating of bedding material, and even cannibalism have all been reported as a result of food and/or water deprivation.
Sipper tubes often become clogged or continually contact bedding material, thereby draining the water bottles to which they are attached.
Water bottles and their delivery tubes must be checked constantly for these problems.
Parents must set a "good example" for their children and teach them a routine of care and maintenance of their pet hamster. Careful
observation and vigilant attention to their hamster's every need should be emphasized. Neglect to any degree is intolerable and always
results in some detriment to the hamsters.
Abscesses
Abscesses are most often caused by bite wounds from fighting. These wounds become infected, forming abscesses that appear as firm,
painful lumps under the skin. Abscesses from injuries other than bite wounds may be indistiguishable from these that result from fighting.
Abscesses of one or both cheek pouches are also very common among pet hamsters. These commonly result from penetrating wounds to the lining of the
pouch caused by harsh foods or bedding materials. It may be very difficult for you to know whether a swelling in the area of the
cheek pouch is an abscess or simply food or bedding being temporarily stored within the pouch. Generally speaking, the swelling resulting from a
cheek pouch abscess persists, but a pouch swelling from stored food or bedding disappears when the animal empties its cheek pouch.
If an abscess is detected or suspected, the abscess must be opened and the pus drained or removed by a veterinarian. An appropriate antibiotic
also will be prescribed. Furthermore, the underlying cause(s) for the abscess must be eliminated, if possible.
Wet Tail (Proliferative Ileitis)
The most serious intestinal disease of hamsters is "wet tail." The bacterium suspected of causing this disease is called Campylobacter, which can also cause
intestinal disease in swine, dogs, ferrets, primates, and other animals.
This disease most often afflicts hamsters of weaning age (3-6 weeks old), but hamsters of all ages are susceptible. Since weaning
hamsters and those slightly older are commonly sold in pet stores, wet tail is a fairly common disease among recently aquired hamsters.
Long-haired "teddy bear" hamsters are highly susceptible to wet tail. Signs include lethargy, inappetence, unkempt haircoat, sunken,
dull eyes, increased irritability, hunched posture, very fluidy diarrhea, and a wet, soiled anal area and tail. Blood from the rectum
and protrusion of the rectal lining (prolapse) may be noted in particularly serious cases.
Hamsters with wet tail must be immediatly examined and evaluated by a veterinarian. Fluid replacement, oral antidiarrheal medication,
and antibiotics will be given, along with supportive care to keep the patient warm, clean, comfortable, and well nourished. Treatment
is often unrewarding, and death may occur as soon as 48 hours after the onset of initial signs. This disease is not transmissible to people.
Salmonellosis
Several species of the bacterium, Salmonella, can cause serious intestinal disease (salmonellosis) in hamsters under certain
circumstances. Salmonellosis is transmissible and equaly serious in people.
The bacterium is usually aquired by eating food contaminated with the organism. Pet hamsters established in homes would most likely become infected
via this route. For this reason, fresh fruits and vegetables must be thoroughly washed before they are offered to hamsters. Newly purchased
pet hamsters may harbor the Salmonella organism, having aquired it from the colony into which they were born.
Salmonellosis in hamsters may manifest itself as sudden illness that often is fatal or as a more long-standing disease that causes
weight loss.
Salmonellosis can be diagnosed on stool culture by a veterinarian. Antibiotic treatment of the disease may or may not be recommended
by the veterinarian, depending upon public health implications. Euthanasia (putting the patient to sleep) would be recommended if
treatment is not undertaken.
Rabies
The subject of rabies inevitably comes up whenever an individual is bitten by a hamster and because hamster bites are so common.
Hamsters are not natural hosts of this virus. Therefore, the only way that a hamster could become infected with the rabies
virus is to become exposed to infected saliva from a natural host (skunk, fox, bat, etc). This is highly unlikely, since hamsters are
almost exclusively indoor pets.
Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis
This viral disease can be transmitted from hamsters to people. A large number of cases in 1974 and 1975 were traced to a common
infected hamster colony. Signs of this disease in people include recurrent fever, fatigue, muscle aches, sore throat, rash, and
arthritis.
The natural host in the wild for the causatuve virus is the rodent population. Hamsters would most likely aquire their infection
from this source. Because hamsters are almost exclusively indoor pets, they are unlikely to become infected with the virus. Hamster
owners must, however, restrict contact between their pets and orphaned wild rodents that have been adopted.
Demodectic Mange
Demodectic mange, a common external parasite problem of hamsters, is caused by mites that reside within the hair follicles and certain
glands of the skin. The mites cause dry, scaly skin and significant hair loss, especially over the back.
This disease is rarely a problem by itself and is frequently associated with long-standing, debillitating diseases, such as those involving the kidneys.
Hamsters exhibiting hair loss should be examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. The doctor will do a skin scraping and
examine it under the microscope. The presence of mites in the scraping confirms the diagnosis. This disease can be treated, but the
patient may have an underlying problem for which there is no practical treatment or cure.
Intestinal Parasites
Hamsters frequently harbor tapeworms within their small intestines.
Heavy infections may cause weight loss. Lighter infections usually go undetected unless pieces of the worms pass out of the hamster's
anus or appear in the feces.
People can become infected with the same organism. Tapeworms can be transmitted to uninfected hamsters (or people) when feces
harboring the tapeworm eggs are inadvertantly eaten. This underscores the importance of restricting access to hamsters and their
enclosures by very young children. All such encounters should be carefully monitored.
Hamster owners suspicious of this parasite problem should submit a fecal sample to a veterinarian for analysis. The presence of
tapeworm eggs in the sample (noted microscopically) confirms the diagnosis. Treatment can be instituted by the veterinarian.
Pinworms are a less common intestinal parasitism of hamsters. These extremely tiny worms reside within the large intestines and usually
cause no signs at all.
Pinworm infections can be diagnosed by a veterinarian by microscopic examination of the feces. Pinworm eggs passing from the anus of the hamster
sometimes cause intense itching in this area. A veterinarian may be able to detect the presense of pinworm eggs by pressing cellophane
tape to this area and examining it under the microscope. Pinworms of hamsters do not cause disease in people.
Sensitivity of Hamsters to Certain Antibiotics
Hamsters as a group are unusually sensitive to the potentially lethal effects of certain antibiotics, whether they are given orally or by injection.
Potentially harmful antibiotics include ampicillin, penicillin, erythromycin, lincomycin, and streptomycin.
The major way in which certain antibiotics cause reactions is by altering the normal microbial balance within the gastrointestinal
tract. Once the normal intestinal microfloral balance has been upset, certain bacteria multiply to abnormally large numbers. The
multiplying bacteria produce harmful chemicals that can have lethal effects.
Certain antibiotics (streptomycin, dihydrostreptomycin) are directly toxic and do not alter the normal microbial balance within the
gastrointestinal tract. These antibiotics should never be used in hamsters.
Though injectable antibiotics can cause the problems described above, oral antibiotics are more often associated with them. Antibiotics
should never be given to hamsters unless they are prescribed by a veterinarian. If oral or injectable antibiotics are prescribed,
1/2cc (1/10 teaspoon) of plain, white yogurt should be given orally to the treated hamster morning and evening for the duration of
the antibiotic therapy and for an additional 5-7 days afterward. Yogurt helps replace those beneficial intestinal bacteria that
often perish during antibiotic treatment.
Human Allergies to Hamster Dander
Certain people are allergic to the hair and/or dander of hamsters. People working with hamsters in laboratory situations are more
likely to develop such allergies because of their continual association with them. Signs include itchy eyes, sneezing, runny nose,
persistent cough, shortness of breath, wheezing, a skin rash, and anaphylactic shock (a true medical emergency).
Owners of pet hamsters may also be suceptible, a medical doctor should be consulted about suspected allergy problems if a hamster
is kept as a pet in the household. Hamster owners with such a suspected allergy may want to consult an allergist.
Vital Statistics
* Scientific Name: Mesocricetus auratus
* Potential Life Span: 2-3 years
* Adult Body Weight: 100-150 grams (females being slightly larger)
* Desirable Enviromental Temperature Range: 65-75 F
* Desirable Relative Humidity Range: 30-70%
* Recommended Age At First Breeding: Males 10-14wks, Females 6-10wks
* Length Of Estrous (Heat) Cycle: 94 hours
* Gestation (Pregnancy) Period: 15-16 days
* Average Litter Size: 5-10 young
* Age At Weaning: 3wks
Richard W. Woerpel, MS, DVM
Walter J. Rosskopf, Jr, DVM
Avian and Exotic Animal Hospitals of Los Angeles and Orange Counties
4871 W. Rosecrans Avenue
Hawthorne, California 90250 |
10661 Ellis Avenue, Suite C
Fountain Valley, California 92708 |
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