Arbor Pet Clinic

Richard Turner, DVM
Home
Our Services
Animal Care
Meet The Staff
Patient Photos
Contact Us

News

We will be closed
June 14-17, July 4th, and July 19-22.

        
Tiger Preservation Center
819 N. Sacramento St
Lodi, CA 95240
(209) 334-4257
Hours:
M, T, W, F: 8am-12pm & 1:30pm-5:30pm
Th, Sat: 8am-12pm
Sun: Closed
Care of Rabbits

Introduction

The domestic rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus, is a descendant of wild rabbits living in western Europe and northern Africa. In their natural environment, rabbits are gregarious and reproductively successful. They are completely herbivorous (eat only plants) and most actively forage in the twilight or nighttime hours. Rabbits use their claws to dig and burrow into the ground for shelter and protection. They rarely stand their ground when threatened but instead use their considerable speed and maneuverability to escape harm. Domestic rabbits or wild rabbits kept in captivity, however, can display an amazing degree of aggression when upset or threatened.

Domestic rabbits are bred and kept for commercial meat and fur, teaching and research, as indoor and outdoor pets, and for echibition by rabbit fanciers. Rabbits make excellent pets. They are relatively easy to care for and can be litterbox-trained. Their fastidious nature, unaggressive behavior, and quiet manner make them increasingly popular house pets.

Rabbits live an average of 5-10 years (potential life span, 15 years). Males reach breeding age at 6-10 months of age, and females at 5-9 months of age. Pregnancy lasts 29-35 days (average of 31-32 days) and litters average 4-10 bunnies.

Diet

Feeding pet rabbits is easy because nutritionally complete and balanced commercial pelleted diets are redily available. One of these pelleted diets and fresh water are all a pet rabbit requires.

The pellets should be offered at all times unless overeating and obesity have become problems. Clean, fresh water also should be available at all times.

The pellets should be as fresh as possible when purchased and should be purchased in relatively small quantities. The pellets should be stored in the refrigerator to prevent premature spoilage. Pellets that will probably not be used within two months of purchase should be frozen immediatly after purchase. Refusal to eat rancid pellets is a relatively common cause of inappetence amoung rabbits.

Fresh water should be offered daily, either in a bottle or in a heavy ceramic dish that cannot be easily overturned. Many hobbyists find that hanging drop-style bottles most satisfactory. The water container, regardless of type used, should be thouroughly cleaned and disinfected a least every 1-2 days.

Good-quality hay (grass, alfalfa, or clover) and/or grass clippings should be offered daily. Some researchers believe this practice reduces intestinal problems and the tendency to pull and chew on hair.

Other food items (lettuce, spinach, alfalfa sprouts, carrot tops, beet greend, carrots, apples, etc) can be offered in small amounts daily. These food items should not be offered in larger amounts because they are water-rich and lack the nutritional density of the pelleted diets. Furthermore, many rabbits develope a preference for these items over pellets if they are offered in large quantity. Rabbits can tolerate table food items offered daily if given in small amounts (no more than 20% by volume of the total diet). This is especially true of rabbits fed in this fashion from an early age.

Vitamin-mineral supplementation is not necessary if a pet rabbit is fed as outlined above. Some rabbit owners provide saltlicks for their pets, but experts do not regard this addition as a necessity. Many rabbits love to gnaw and chew on their cage and on items within the cage. A well-boiled roundsteak bone (marrow removed) and/or small dog chew toys are often accpted as challenging gnawing substitutes.

Many veterinarians recommend adding pineapple or pina colada yogurt to the daily diet. Most rabbits willingly accept the yogurt, especially if they are introduced to it at a young age. Yogurt not only promotes and maintains the normal bacterial flora within the digestive tract, but the pineapple contains an enzyme (papain) that is thought to help dissolve any hair that has been eaten.

Eating of Night Feces

Rabbits engage in relatively uncommon but normal behavior when they deliberately eat small, soft, moist (often mucus-covered), light green fecal pellets directly from the anus. These special "night stools" are especially rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals. Rabbits must obtain these nutrients in this fashion. This behavior is most often carried out in the early morning hours and is rarely observed by rabbit owners. Sometimes, however, they choose not to eat the night pellets, and you may notice these slightly different droppings in the morning.

Handling and Restraint

Improper handling may cause serious, life-threatening injuries. Fractures and dislocations of the back, most often resulting in paralysis of both rear legs, are the most common injuries. These injuries also occur when rabbits are suddenly frightened and attempt to escape from a small enclosure.

A rabbit's spine is relatively lightweight and fragile. When a rabbit becomes frightened, it violently struggles by powerfully kicking its back legs. The lightning-fast movements of the rear legs cause overextension of the lumbosacral (lower back) region of the spine, which frequently results in fractures or dislocations. One should never try to overpower a struggling rabbit. If a rabbit violently resists physical restraint, it should be immediatly released and approached later when it has calmed down.

A soft-spoken, relaxed approach with rabbits works well. Covering the eyes and lightly stroking a rabbit will usually result in a hypnotic-like trance that often renders them less prone to panic and injury.

Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears. If you are concerned about being scratched by the claws, place a towel over the rabbit's back and wrap it around the body to restrain all four feet before picking up the rabbit. An alternative method of picking up a rabbit involves sliding one hand under its breast bone and grasping both front legs between the fingers of this hand. The other hand is then gently worked under the rear quarters to fully support them as the rabbit is lifted upwards, in the same manner as cats are held.

Housing Considerations

Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. Indoor rabbits should be confined to a suitable enclosure when their activity cannot be adequately supervised. A roomy wire cage with at least one-half of the floor's surface area covered with Plexiglass or washable towels is recommended. The Plexiglass or towels provide relief from constant and continual contact with the wire floor, helping to prevent hutch sores on the feet. A water bottle or ceramic crock, food dish, and a litterbox should be provided for the rabbit inside the enclosure.

Under no circumstances should rabbits be allowed total freedom within the home. Rabbits love to chew and can be very destructive to household furnishings. Furthermore, they can be seriously injured by biting into telephone and electrical cords.

Like cats, rabbits can be easily trained to use a litterbox in the home. If the rabbit has already selected an area for elimination, the litterbox should be placed in this location. It helps to place some of the rabbit's fecal pellets in the litterbox to encourage its use.

Rabbits housed outdoors should be confined in roomy wire cages with Plexiglass covering about one-half of the floor's surface area. The wire mesh should be large enough to allow fecal pellets to drop through. A water bottle or ceramic crock and a heavy food dish should be provided.

Adequate shade and a "hiding spot" should be provided as well. Rabbits are typically anxious, wary animals and are easily frightened. This is especially true of newly aquired pet rabbits and rabbits kept for reasons other than as pets. A concealed area into which these rabbits can retreat when they feel threatened in necessary to prevent injury that would result from excessive and futile efforts to escape from the cage. Hiding provides a safe alternative to useless and often injurious escape efforts.

Shade must be provided to prevent heat stress or heat stroke. All rabbits, even those housed indoors, are especially sensitive to high environmental temperatures. Adequate shelter must also be provided against wind, rain, snow, and ice.

Care of Orphaned Bunnies

Trying to raise orphaned wild rabbit species (cottontails, hares, etc) is rarely a rewarding venture. Bunnies are often orphaned when people unknowingly disrupt a nest. Lactating does (females) nurse their younf for only 3-5 minutes in the early morning hours of each day, giving the uninformed observer the impression that the new mother is neglecting her litter or that she has abandoned it altogether. This is how people mistakenly make orphans out of bunnies that are, in fact, being well and properly cared for by their mothers. Causes for abandonment of the nest include agalactia (doe with no milk), mastitis (doe with infection of the mammary glands), hypothermia (chilling), of the young, and physical disturbance of the nest itself.

Whenever possible, orphaned bunnies should be placed with a doe nursing her own litter. Success is mist likely if the orphans are less than two weeks of age and within two days of the age of the litter belonging to the foster doe. A drop of purfume or pine oil-type scent applied to the nose of the foster doe helps to prevent rejection of the orphaned bunnies. Orphaned bunnies under three weeks of age can be fed warmed, supplemented, Esbilac (Borden). Two alternative formulas are included in the Appendix. Substitute milk formula should be given slowly 2-3 times daily. Up to 5cc (1 teaspoon) can be given the first few days. The volume is increased slowly to 15cc (1 tablespoon) the second week, and to 25cc (nearly 1 ounce) by the third week. The anal area should be gently swabbed with a warm water-soaked cottonball to stimulate defecation and urination. Aspiration, pneumonia, hypothermia, and diarrhea are frequent consequences of hand-feeding orphaned bunnies.

Surgical Considerations

Sterilization


Pet rabbits not intended for breeding should be sterilized at any time after 4 1/2 months of age. Male rabbits (especially of the dwarf varieties) have a tendency to become aggressive upon reaching sexual maturity. Neutering (castration) is the best way to reduce the severity of the problems (biting, urine-spraying) seen in sexually mature male rabbits.

Female rabbits should be spayed (ovariohysterectomized) to prevent unwanted pregnancy and uterine cancer. Uterine tumors are the most common type in female rabbits and often are associated with serious blood loss. Spaying female rabbits may also help to prevent or reduce territorial aggression among females.

Infections Requiring Veterinary Attention

Bacterial Diseases

Pasteurellosis
- The bacterium, Pasteurella multocida, is the major infection agent of rabbits. It is most often transmitted among chronically infected does and their litters or between breeding males and females. The bacteria most often reside in the nose, lungs, and eye membranes, but can spread to other areas of the body.

Pasteurellosis of rabbits may take many different forms. Respiratory disease, including pneumonia and infection of the nasal passages and sinuses, is very common. Infections of the eye membranes, middle ear, jawbone, and uterus are most often the result of the Pasteurella organism settles in a specific location. The rabbit's body responds to this invasion with an influx of tremendous numbers of whire blood cells to fight the infection. Pus results from the accumulation of dead and dying white blood cells and tissue cells in the area of the infection.

Pasteurella infections may become incurable if untreated or improperly treated. Aggressive antibiotic therapy with the appropriate drugs, however, especially if undertaken early in the course of the disease, is often rewarding. Many antibiotics have great difficulty penetrating the relatively inaccessible sites of most infections and the thick pus seen in rabbit abscesses.

Pasteurellosis is a persistent problem in most rabbitriesand very difficult to eradicate. This disease creates its most serious problems under conditions of malnutrition, overcrowding, poor sanitation, temperature extremes, inadequate air circulation, and other stressful situations.

Ideally, prospective owners should obtain their pet rabbit from a Pasteurella-free rabbitry, but this is not always possible. Regardless or origin, all newly acquired pet rabbits should be thouroughly examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible after purchase.

Abscesses - As mentioned in the previous section on Pasteurellosis, rabbits are very prone to abscess formation. The bacteria most often involved in these abscesses include Pasteurella multocida and Staphylococcus aureaus. Abscesses represent focal areas of infection and may be in single or multiple locations. The most important consideration regarding this condition is the way in which abscesses must be treated. Because rabbit pus is roughly the consistency of toothpaste, lancing and draining abscesses are difficult and attempts to do so may be futile. Abscesses should be treated as if they were tumors and be surgically removed. In addition, an appropriate antibiotic should be given.

Respiratory Disease - Most respiratory diseases of rabbits are caused by the bacterium, Pasteurella multocida, though other bacteria are often involved. In rare instances, the protozoan (one-celled) organisms that cause coccidiosis colonize the nasal passages ans cause respiratory disease. Respiratory signs often include sneezing, nasal congestion and discharge, eye discharge, listlessness, inappetence, and pneumonia.

Respiratory disease of rabbits must be aggressively treated with an appropriate antibiotic (determined by a bacterial culture and antibiotic sensitivity test) and for an appropriate length of time to prevent relapses. Unfortunately, research has shown that the Pasteurella organism often resides within pus in inaccessible areas (such as the nasal passages) and remain isolated from the therapeutic effects of antibiotics. These "protected" organisms serve as a source for reinfection. For this reason, a total cure for Pasteurella-related disease may be very difficult.

Eye infections are relatively common extensions od sinus infections in rabbits and should be treated aggressively with systemic (body-wide) and topical antibiotics. This is important because the eyes are connected to the brain by important nerves. In an eye infection goes unchecked, encephalitis (infection of the brain) is a common and dangerous consequence.

Internal Bacterial Infections

Internal bacterial infections from a host of bacterial organis,s are common among rabbits. Affected rabbits show a wide variety of signs because multiple organs (liver, kidney, intestinal tract, brain, etc) are usually involved.

Laboratory workups (blood, urine, bacterial cultures) are vital to properly diagnose and monitor the progess of these cases. Laboratory tests also help predict the outcome.

Rabbits suffering from these serious multiple organ bacterial infections (septicemias) must be aggressively treated with appropriate antibiotics and proper supportive care (nutrition, fluids, etc). Recovery usually requires several weeks or more of treatment. If infection results in formation of internal abscesses, a cure may be virtually impossible.

Venereal Spirochetosis (Rabbit Syphilis) - Rabbit syphilis is a relatively rare sexually transmitted (venereal) disease of pet rabbits. This disease is caused by a slender, spiral bacterium (spirochete) transmitted by direct contact between infected and unifected rabbits. Transmission is more likely to occur in rabbitries than in a household. In fact, exchange of bucks (breeding males) among rabbit breeders helps spread the disease.

Infected rabbits develop multiple raised, crusted, and sometimes bleeding ulcers on the external genitalia, around the anus, and on the face (particularly the nose). Affected rabbits remain alert and the condition usually disappears after several weeks. Treatment is rocommened and involves antibiotic injections.

Fungal Disease

Ringworm
- Ringworm is a relatively uncommon fungal disease in rabbits. It is caused by an agent similar to the one that causes athlete's foot in people. It is transmitted easily by direct contact with fungal spores on haircoats, bedding, and soil. It mist commonly affects juvenile rabbits and susceptible adults, usually causing multiple hairless areas with slightly reddened skin. These hairless areas are often covered with a slight or heavy crust. The patches usually occur on the head, ears, and forelimbs.

Spot application of topical preparations can be used to treat a few individual areas, but oral medication is required if ringworm affects much of the body.

Ringworm can be transmitted to susceptible people (including children). Caution should, therefore be exercised in handling rabbits with ringworm.

Viral Diseases

Viral diseases affecting pet rabbits are rarely identified. Fortunately, such devastating viral diseases as myxomatosis are very uncommon in pet rabbits in the United States. Rabies is virtually unknown in pet rabbits.

Parasitic Diseases

Ear Mite Infestation
- Ear mite infestations cause accumulation of a light brown crusty material that nearly fills the external ear canal. The underlying tissues are usually very raw and irritated. In especially severe cases, these sores may spread to adjacent areas of the head. The infestation may be treated with eardrops, though injectable medication has recently proven highly successful in treating this condition.

Cheyletiella Mange ("Walking Dandruff") - Most rabbit owners overlook the early signs of mange, a parasitic infestation of the skin by the Cheyletiella mange mite. As this condition worsens, however, the accumulation of dried scale and scurf ("dandruff") within the fur and limited hair loss (often in clumps) become obvious. Affected rabbits may or may not exhibit increased scratching.

This particular problem is easy to diagnose and treat. An injectable drug works very well in conjuncture with a medicated shampoo to eliminate the offending mites and clear up the skin of the disease.

Flea Infestation - Fleas can infest pet rabbits whether or not the rabbits share the household with other pets, such as dogs and cats. Fleas such blood and can cause anemia if present in large enough numbers and if they are not eliminated from the environment. Topical flea products (powders or sprays) formulated for use on cats are generally well tolerated by rabbits. They should be used in the same manner as for cats. The manufacturers of these products have taken into consideration that cats (and rabbits) habitually lick and clean themselves and, in doing so, may swallow small amounts of the product formulated for cats is used properly. Flea collars should not be used on rabbits.

Coccidiosis - Coccidiosis, caused by a protozoan (one-celled organism) parasite, is a disease of the liver and/or intestinal tract. Rabbits become infected by eating food or consuming water contaminated with feces from an infected rabbit. Signs depend on whther the disease is localized within the liver (inappetence, diarrhea, death) or the intestinal tract (weight loss, soft to watery feces, mucus and/or blood in feces, soiled anal area, dehydration, increased thirst, possibly death). The relative severity of both types of infection depends upon the number of coccidia eaten, the age of the rabbit, the strength of its immune system, and other illness in the rabbit. Occasionally, the coccidia colonize the nasal passages, resulting in respiratory disease (nasal coccidiosis).

Coccidiosis may be treated with sulfa drugs. Emphasis must be placed on prevention (good husbandry and sanitation) of this disease in all rabbitries, since it can be difficult to eliminate in these situations.

Pinworm Infestation - Pinworm infestations are rarely detected unless routine fecal examinations are conducted. These worms reside within the large bowel and rarely cause difficulties in rabbits. Pinworm eradication is somewhat difficult because of the number of treatments and follow-up fecal examinations are necessary. This parasite is not transmissible to people.

Non-Infectious Conditions Requiring Veterinary Attention

Hairballs


Like cats, rabbits (especially Angora rabbits) frequently develope hairballs within their stomachs. But unlike cats, rabbits cannot vomit. As a result, hair that is swallowed from frequent grooming passes into the stomach and remains there. Over time, the hair developes into a solid mass. As the hairball increases in size, it begins to occupy more and more of the stomach, leaving less room for food. Initial signs of a hairball problem include reluctance to eat pellets and more interest in eating greens and treat items. Later signs include inappetence, smaller fecal pellets or none passed at all, weakness, weight loss, and eventually death from starvation.

Surgery is often necessary to remove the hairball from the stomach. Some cases can be successfully managed more conservatively with judicious use of fresh pineapple or papaya products and intestinal lubricants. For this reason, conservative treatment is usually attempted before resorting to surgical intervention. Recurrences are common.

Prevention includes vigorous daily brushing of the rabbit and daily use of intestinal lubricants (Laxatone, Evsco Pharmaceuticals, Buena, NJ 08310) formulated for cats. Many rabbit fanciers and veterinarians believe that feeding fresh (not canned) pineapple juice, pineapple chunks, and papaya, which contains the digestive enzyme papain, may help prevent stomach hairballs in rabbits. The suggested daily dosage of pineapple juice is 1/2 tsp per 2 punds of body weight. A suitable alternative to this is pina colada yogurt at a dosage of 1cc per pound body weight given orally twice daily.

Hutch Sores ("Sore Hocks")

Hutch sores are chronically ulcerated and infected wounds on the weight-bearing surfaces of the rear (and sometimes the front) paws. They are caused by a number of predisposing factors: reduced thinkness of fur on the bottoms of the feet; continued thumping of the rear feet when frightened; excessive body weight; repeated or continual urine-soiling of feet; lack of movement from living in a small enclosure; and abrasions fro irregular cage flooring. Hutch sores can occur in rabbits housed on solid floors, but are more common in rabbits kept in enclosures with wire floors. Pet rabbits that are housed indoors or outdoors should be confined in roomy wire cages with Plexiglass covering about one-half of the floor's surface area.

Hutch sores are treated with antibiotics (both topical and by injection) and periodic bandaging of the affected feet. Treatment is usually long-term and also requires identification and correction of the underlying causes. Hutch sores must be treated aggressively to prevent infection of deeper soft tissues and bone.

Overgrown Incisor Teeth

Malocclusion (improperly aligned teeth resulting in abnormal tooth growth and wear) in rabbits usually results in overgrown incisor (front) teeth. Occasionally, misdirected premolar and molar teeth are noted. Many rabbits with a malocclusion probably have a genetic deficiency that causes an abnormally short upper jaw. This structural defect prevents the continuously growing upper and lower incisors from meeting each other as the rabbit chews. Consequently, the overgrown incisors cause considerable trauma to the tongue and lining of the mouth. A rabbit's "bite" must be absolutely perfect so that its continuously growing teeth wear down properly.

Infections of the jawbone in the area of the incisors can also result in misalignment of these teeth. Many cases of overgrown incisors result from previous injury to the area of the jaw responsible for growth of the incisors, with subsequent eneven tooth growth.

Initial signs of this disorder include failure to properly chew and swallow food, salivation, and a wet dewlap. Inappetence and weight loss soon become noticeable. Death from starvation can occur if the problem goes untreated.

Treatment involves periodic clipping of the incisors and attention to any wounds within the mouth caused by the overgrown teeth. The clipping procedure should be carried out by an experienced veterinarian or veterinary technician and must be done periodically for the remainder of the rabbit's life. Rabbits with this condition should never, under any circumstances, be bred.

Overgrown Claws

Overgrown claws are easily torn when caught in fabric or wire mesh. A panicked rabbit can also inflict painful scratchs with them. Clipping calws requires experience and judicioud restraint of the rabbit, and should be done as needed. Declawing of rabbits is not recommended.

Heat Stress (Heat Stroke)

Rabbits are especially susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures above 85 F, high humidity (above 70%), inadequate sheade and ventilation, crowding, and other forms of stress are aditional predisposing factors.

Signs of heat stroke include patient panting, slivation, ear reddening, weakness, refusal to move, delirium, convulsions, and eventually death. Heat stroke can be successfully treated if recognized early. Heat-stressed rabbits should either be sprayed or bathed with cool water. Another very effective way to rapidly lower the body temperature involves applying cold running water to the ear flaps. Once these first-aid measures are undertaken, a veterinarian should be contacted immediatly.

Prevention od heat stroke involves providing adequate shade from the sun (if the rabbit is housed outdoors) and ventilation (if the rabbit is housed indoors or with many other rabbits). A continuous light mist or spray of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice and directed at a rabbit within its enclosure can help lower the air temperature, whether the rabbit is housed indoors or outdoors.

Trauma to the Spine

An interesting fact is that a rabbit's entire skeleton comprises only 8% of its total body weight. In comparison, a domestic cat's skeleton comprises 13% of its body weight. The rabbit's fragile lumber spine (lower back) is surrounded by powerful muscles and is particularly susceptible to fracture. Back injuries most often occur when rabbits are dropped, or improperly picked up or restrained. Closely confined rabbits that become excited and thrash about excessively are very prone to back injuries.

Signs of back injury may include incoordination, urine-soiling, and uncontrolled defecation. Paralysis of the rear quarters is the most serious consequence of this type of injury. Any rabbit exhibiting any of these signs should be examined by a veterinarian at once. A through physical examination and radiographs (x-rays) are usually necessary to make the diagnosis and predict the eventual medical outcome. Spinal injuries are considered very serious and, generally speaking, the outcome is often unfavorable.

To avoid injury, rabbits should be picked up and restrained carefully. A panicked, struggling rabbit should never be forcefully restrained. Instead suck a rabbit should be immediatly released and reapproached when it has calmed down.

Uterine Cancer

The most common tumor of domestic rabbits involves the uterin lining. In breeding rabbits, the early signs of this tumor involve decreased fertility, smaller litter sizes, abortions, and stillbirths. In pet rabbits, the most common clinical sign of a uterine tumor is intermittent bleeding from the vulva. This vulver bleeding is often mistaken for blood in the urine. The volume of the hemmorrhage can be substantial and alrming. If bleeding is intermittent, the results of the urinalysis may be normal between bleeding episodes.

Though this type of tumor can spread to the lungs, spaying of affected does is strongly advised. Because this type of tumor is so common, all pet female rabbits should be spayed after 4 1/2 months of age to avoid diffuculties with the reproductive tract later in life.

Wryneck

Wryneck, a serious problem in pet rabbits, is a mild to severe twisting of the head that causes incoordination and sometimes total incapacitation. Wryneck is most often the result of a bacterial infection of the inner ear and is not a true neck problem. It can be treated with antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs, but the outlook with these cases is always guarded.

Unfortunately, wryneck often results from abscessation of the inner ear (and sometimes the brain). Penetration of antibiotics into the diseased area is often restricted or impossible, resulting in mild improvement, temporary relief, or no impreovement at all.

Temporary Selective Anorexia

Some pet rabbits occasionally refuse to eat alfalfa pellets. Affected rabbits usually continue to eat other items in their diets. This condition occurs most often in response to stress, such as that associated with inadequate husbandry or sudden environmental changes. Affected rabbits may continue to refuse to eat pellets for weeks. Old or spoiled (rancid) pellets will also be steadfastly refused.

This condition is diagnosed indirectly. Physical examination of the rabbit reveals nothing abnormal and laboratory tests on blood samples are normal. Other causes of inappetence must also be ruled out, such as hairball formation.

Poisonings and Other Hazards

Pet rabbits are often allowed the "run of the house." However, rabbits love to chew and often get into trouble by shewing on electrical cords, poisonous plants, floor mats, and rugs. Electrocution, serious burns, poisoning, and intestinal impaction are the most frequent consequences of such chewing.

Rabbits should be confined when their owners are away from the house and must be closely supervised when their owners are at home so that these accidents are avoided.

Use of Antibiotics in Rabbits

Antibiotics should never be used in rabbits unless they are specifically prescribed by a veterinarian. The route of administration (oral vs. injectable) of antibiotics is a much more important consideration with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Because rabbits are herbivorous (plant-eating) and depend upon becteria within their bowel for proper digestion, antibiotics given by mouth can wipe out these beneficial bowel microorganisms. When these helpful and necessary bacteria are destroyed, undesirable bacteria can overgrow and produce poisons within the bowel that can kill the rabbit. When needed, injectable antibiotics are preferred because they are far less injurious to the bacteria within the intestinal tract.

Rabbits receiving antibiotics, especially oral antibiotics, should be given yogurt to help replenish those beneficial bacteria destroyed by the antibiotic. Yogurt (pina colada or orange-flavored is preferred) should be given during the course of the antibiotic therapy and for at least three days after antibiotic use has been stopped. A suitable alternative is to add a powdered Lactobacillus or Acidophilus product, plus Tang (General Foods) to the drinking water. Rabbits seem to prefer the flavor of orange and will be unaware that they are also drinking a large volume of favorable and desireable bacteria that may help their intestinal tracts. Yogurt should be included in the diet in anticipation of future antibiotic use.

Sensitivity of the Rabbit's Intestinal Tract

The bacterial populations in a rabbit's intestinal tract are considered the most delicately balanced of any in all herbivorous mammals. The growth and actively of normal (favorable) bacteria tend to keep potentially harmful bacteria in check. Overgrowth of harmful bacteria usually results in production of toxins that are rapidly absorbed into the rabbit's circulation, quickly causing illness and death.

In addition to orally administered antibiotics, other insults can disturb the balance of bacteria. Rapid changes in the diet are most often implicated. For example, a rabbit's diet was suddenly changed from alfalfa pellets to oats because the pet owner had run out of rabbit pellets. The rabbit died within 24 hours of this diet change. Another case of sudden death involved a pet rabbit that ate a large quantity of oatmeal cereal and died the following day. A third rabbit was allowed to consume huge quantities of lawn grass. Its intestinal tract was not adequately prepared and the rabbit died the same day.

No other commony kept house pet is as sensitive to dietary changes as the rabbit. Consequently, such changes should be made very gradually. Supplements to the regular diet should be added cautiously and should not constitute more than 20% of the total diet by volume.

The Appearance of Rabbit Urine

Urine from normal rabbits usually contains large amounts of a light-colored sediment and may appear abnormal to the uninitiated. The color of normal rabbit urine varies from white, to yellowish-white, to light brown. Rabbits that drink large quantities of water tend to produce clearer urine containing less sediment.

Rabbits that have been recently treated with antibiotics and those undergoing significant stress may temporarily produce urine that is orange or red-tinged. Such urine can be differentiated from that which accompanies urinary tract infections or uterin bleeding by use of a urinalysis, performed by a veterinarian.

Milk Formulas for Orphaned Bunnies

* 1 Egg Yolk
* 8oz (240cc) Canned Evaporated Milk
* 8oz (240cc) Bottled Water
* 1 teaspoon (5cc) Honey
* 1 teaspoon (5cc) Pediatric Vitamin/Minearl Supplement

or

* 1 Can Esbilac (Borden)
* 1 Raw Egg (White and Yolk)
* 1 tablespoon (15cc) Neocalglucon (Sandoz Pharmaceuticals) or Similar Liquid Calcium Supplement

Important Physiologic Values

* Normal Body Temperature: 101.5-103 F
* Life Span: 5-10 years (rarely up to 15 years)
* Breeding Age: males, 6-10 months; females, 5-9 months
* Pregnancy: 29-35 days
* Litter Size: 4-10
* Weaning Age: 4-6 weeks

Rabbit Fancier Associations

Below is a partial list of national rabbit specialty clubs and associations found in the Encyclopedia of Associations, which can be found in any local library. The mailing addresses and phone numbers of local orginizations affiliated with these clubs and associations and those not listed here could be obtained by contacting individuals associated with the national cubs and associations.

Glen C. Carr, Exec Sec
American Rabbit Breeders' Association
Box 426
1925 S. Main St
Bloomington, IL 61701
(309) 827-6623

Aleck Brooks, Pres
Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club
P.O. Box 715
Apopka, FL 32703
(306) 889-7235

Jean Brunette, Sec-Treas
Lop Rabbit Club of America
R.R. 15, Box 561
West Terre Haute, IN 47558
(812) 533-3761

Janis Coffelt, Sec-Treas
Mini Lop Rabbit Club of America
P.O. Box 916
Kenmore, WA 98028
(206) 483-1020

Connie Cummings, Sec
National Angora Rabbit Breeders' Club
Black River Road
Watertown, NY 13601
(315) 788-3986

House Rabbit Society
1615 Encinal Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501


Richard W. Woerpel, MS, DVM
Walter J. Rosskopf, Jr, DVM

Avian and Exotic Animal Hospitals of Los Angeles and Orange Counties
4871 W. Rosecrans Avenue
Hawthorne, California 90250
10661 Ellis Avenue, Suite C
Fountain Valley, California 92708

Back